Tuesday, September 23, 2008

God Bless the Rain Down in Africa

Not only did God bless the rains in Africa, he handed them to us on a large silver platter. This morning would have been an excellent time to blog because it poured like Katrina down here. Our house in Rosebank didn't get hit too hard but farther north near the townships and where I volunteer we could barely see out the windows and the streets were flooded with three feet of water. I don't know how our van got through it. Of course it hit hard in the townships, where the people live in tin boxes and have nothing but dirt for a floor. No matter how hard I try I cannot seem to grasp how people live in there. It's not as if they have a choice but how it is actually possible that blows my mind. One day I think I just have to invite myself in to look. I have to see this for myself. More on townships in a later post I hope...

So not only does my van have the longest route (we go out the farthest from the house) the rain delay made us even later for lunch. Considering we eat breakfast at 7:30 and lunch isn't until 1:00 anyways, I'm already famished at this point. I'm grateful though that I get to go home to a big lunch because today I found out some sad information. My favorite girl at Luthando is six years old, her name is either Thato or Thado (all of their names are so similar). She shouldn't really be at Educare but she moved in the middle of the year from Jo'Burg and the schools don't accept late enrollments. She is always clean and well dressed and she has perfect English from her last school. She said she taught herself. I always rely on her to help me do things or pick things up or take care of the littler kids when they're crying or need help. I never really noticed until this week that she never has a snack and so today I asked her where her snack was. She told me she never has a snack and I asked her why and she replied, 'My mommy doesn't have the money.' She's the only kid there without a snack and it broke my heart. I don't care if I'm not supposed to or it's against the rules but I am bringing her a piece of fruit or a peanut butter sandwich from the house every day until I leave. It's just not fair. At least in the morning Luthando feeds her porridge and I know they get another small meal in the afternoon after I leave.

I have another little boy that I love, he's my thumb-sucker. Both of his thumbs look severely burned, one is always heavily wrapped in gauze and he's always sucking on the other one. I can't figure out if they are burned or if his constant thumb sucking has forced them to look like this. He has the sweetest eyes and is the most gentle of my boys.

I have a lot of divas in my classroom. They are all cute as sin but the problem is they know it. They have the best braids and all of the cute pink clothing. They walk around with their hands on their hips all day and shake their tushes quite seductively during out dance hour. I caught them all yesterday adjusting their shirts in a Daisy Duke style, flipping the bottom through the neck and pulling it through into a crop top. After repeatedly asking them to stop I had to pull one of them out of the room and put her in a time out.

Time outs are really quite brilliant if they work. I usually have to physically pick them up and put them outside in the corner because very few will go willingly. And I have a few little monster boys who seem to find this to be a funny game and they love to run away the minute they get put in their corner. But when it does work I can see the shame on their face for being outcast and made an example of. I have to laugh when they cry because they HAVE to know that it's coming...I only use it as a last resource when I say no at least five times and only when it's something that I see as a danger to other kids (hitting, kicking, biting, throwing chairs, and, of course, wearing slutty clothes).

Speaking of throwing chairs, I think a lot of the violence in my class stems from American wrestling. A lot of them wear shirts and shoes with wrestlers on them and their actions seem to really emulate that of wrestling, not just of playground rough housing. Neck holds and pinning each other down are also common things here. Yet, the teacher seems to have no problem with this and I am left to discipline. It scares me to think about what will happen if there are no more volunteers left at Luthando.

The new group of volunteers comes this Saturday. That means I have been here a month already! I can't believe that I'm going to be a 'veteran volunteer', dolling out advice to new people, getting to go out when they have to stay in for orientation. I love it :-) Sadly though, that means my two Chicago roommates will be leaving me. They extended their flight for another week and have decided to take up a room in a B & B until then. We still have to go to Robben Island, Table Mountain, and do our one-day safari before they go so I'll be quite busy between Sunday and next Saturday. From what I've been told it is going to be a full house and almost all of our 36 beds will be filled. THANK GOD we are getting some boys (men?) in this place. We only had one guy last time and while he was super incredible, one male just isn't enough for me. Not that I'm looking to fall in love or anything but I miss the testosterone I'm used to be around all the time back at home and at school. I miss burping and drinking beer and quoting Entourage and sports and all the wonderful boy things that I love having in my life.

The rain has subsided for the afternoon and it's almost dinnertime. Tomorrow is a public holiday (Heritage Day) so our placements are closed. We plan to sleep in (is 9:00 a.m. really sleeping in?) eating at the adorable cafe down the street and spending the day either climbing the mountain or shopping at the market. I have a feeling I may be hiking that darn mountain on my own however.

Miss everyone a LOT still but thank you SO MUCH for all of those great e-mails and updates. Please don't stop, it really gives me something to look forward to when I get on the computer.

Here is an article I found about my township, Guguletu. Just something interesting I thought I might share: http://www.nytimes.com/2006/06/07/arts/dance/07ball.html?_r=1&oref=slogin

Friday, September 19, 2008

Go Bananas, Go Go Bananas!

So the roommates and friends have just left because a few of our girls are leaving tomorrow since they were only here for three weeks. I, however, have chosen to stay in on a Friday night because I.AM.SICK. It was bound to happen; this place is a cesspool for germs. I can count on both hands the number of people here with persisting illnesses so I was bound to catch something. I put it off for three weeks so I thought that was pretty good but my vitamin C and fish oil were no match for the virus my roommate Danielle passed on to me. Living with this many people and playing with snot-nosed children all day was definitely at some point going to make me sick. How fortunate I was to start feeling it at our going-away dinner right before the weekend. I couldn't even go to placement this morning because I couldn't swallow or breath through my nose. My head hurt so bad it hurt to open my eyes, plus I had a fever. Feeling better now after taking some sinus medicines and antibiotics prescribed by the doctor here. But alas here I am...sitting alone on the futon in my big cold room, alone, writing. Oh well, it brings such pleasure to me when I get comments on here or the sweet and thoughtful e-mails from everyone reminding me of how much I am loved and that yes indeed someone is reading what I'm writing. Thank you for the updates on the Cubs and Barack, and of course, hilarious SNL skits. Tina Faye as Sarah Palin was perfection. "I can see Russia from my house." Love it.

Speaking of politics, click on the video on the right hand side of this page if your'e interested in Barack's popularity in Africa: http://www.thetimes.co.za/specialreports/USElections/Default.aspx?id=430579&gclid=CMHn9LHG6JUCFQ5PMAodqDEQfw

But this post isn't really about my illness or my love of mocking the Republican party. I'm so excited to tell you about what I really came here for and what I spend my days doing here. It's going to be quite a long post but there is so much to say about it and I think that all of it is important in order to fully understand what I see and go through each day.

Everyday I wake up between 6:30 and 7:00 depending on how tired I am. We get ready in a hurry, grab breakfast (three times a week we have scrambled eggs, otherwise it's toast or PB & J and coffee), and hop in the van by 7:45. Wonga, who is now our driver (Malinga was fired but that's another sad story for another day), drops Hillary and I off at Luthando Educare first and then goes on to drop off the other five ladies on our route. On the way home, we are the first to be picked up so at some point or another we get a glimpse of where everyone else is and what sort of neighborhood they are in. Luthando is in a poor black township named Guguletu. In Xhosa (that clicking language I spoke of before) Guguletu means "Our Pride" and I truly get a sense of that when I am there. During apartheid the black people were forced out of their homes into these townships and people continue to live in them today. These are highly highly underdeveloped areas where the poorest poor continue to reside. Each day I am reminded of the extreme poverty in Africa when we drive through the townships. Some of these people, their houses are no more than wooden frames with corrugated tin/aluminum siding. Some of their homes are smaller than my bedroom at home or even at my apartment back at school. They could be perhaps 6 x 8 ft. You may think I joke when I say shacks but that is literally how they live. Shacks and shantys just sit there, row by row by row. Sometimes I look and it's all I can see. In most of these townships the only running water is in a communal pump and their toilets are either holes in the ground or if they're lucky they have port-a-potties. I used to think the south side of Chicago (the projects) was bad. I would feel lucky to live there if I were living in a South African township. Surprisingly however there are these makeshift shops and business all over. Mostly they are these little places called "cash stores" and hair salons. These are usually set up inside what I believe were once cargo crates, like what you would find on a shipping dock. They simply open up one side door, slap a sign out front and BAM! A lucrative business. I laugh when I see all of these little cash stores that sell soda and chips because they ALL have signs sponsored by Coke. These are all mostly illegal little shops but yet Coca-Cola will still give them a sign with their name/logo as well as the name of the shop as long as they carry Coke products. The other popular thing I see driving through the townships are these makeshift BBQs. Raw, disgusting and questionable meat sits outside on a table with nothing covering it next to an old metal barrel that has been cut in half to create a grill. You'll see a dozen of these all in a row.

It may seem really awful but yet I find it hard to come by a person in a township really sit down and complain to me about their life. I find that so many people here have just accepted that this is the way it is. People work hard to make enough to live and eat and clothe their children but that's it. I notice that almost all of my parents who drop their children off are walking them on their backs because none of them have cars. It amazes me when I see them walking up in the drizzling rain with a 4-year old strapped on their back by a tightly tied towel or sheet. This is how many women will carry their children. If I ever saw this back in the states before now I would have marched right up to that mother and told her she should find a safer alternative to carrying her child, that her baby could fall out any minute. But I have found nothing different than this here and it actually seems like a very safe and economic way to hold your kids-all you need is a large enough towel or blanket. Sometimes Tandeka (the teacher in my room) will even have two kids on her, one in front and one in the back. It's insane. I usually just pick them up and let them hang on me like little monkeys.

When Hillary and I arrive at Luthando we take a few minutes to sort of assess the day and see how the children are behaving. We can usually tell right off the bat what sort of day it will be. We finally have a schedule so we have a flow going for us. The first week we were totally clueless as to what we were doing and when we should be doing stuff and the second week Hillary was practically on her death bed and I was alone with the little Rugrats so I had to sort of start doing things the way I needed them to be done. We've started doing some stretches in the morning and then some jumping jacks and running just to get them moving and excited for the day. We also sing nursery rhymes. They know almost everything I know! Itsy Bitsy Spider, Head Shoulders Knees and Toes, You are my Sunshine, The Ants Go Marching, and on and on it goes...By 8:30 it is time for porridge which the cook prepares for them. It's this white chunky oatmeal lookin' stuff-pretty dodgy if you ask me.We serve them their bowls and help clean up. Around 9:00 Hillary busts out her iPod and speakers and does dancing with them. Hillary is 18, a nice little Mormon girl from Utah. She is a dancer and teaches pre-school dance classes at home so we have worked that into our program. It's a lot of songs like the chicken dance or The Wiggles and they just asbolutely love shaking around and pretending to be animals. I can't imagine that any of their parents have an mp3 player or a stereo system beyond a radio so this is a real treat for them because they can't find this anywhere else.

I usually take this time to visit the baby room. The baby room has about 20 babies from 4 months to 3 years. It's really the saddest part of my day when I have to go over because they have NOTHING. When I say nothing I really mean NOTHING. The room reaks of dirty diapers and baby wipes. There are tons of flies and no fly traps. The only toy I ever see them playing with is the mat on the floor because it is made out of foam puzzle pieces that they can pull apart. There is one woman in there and I feel so awful for her because she has to sit in that stench all day and change diapers. This room is also connected to the dirty bathrooms (no toilet paper in the children's bathrooms) so she gets that stench as well. There is only so much she can do as far as singing or playing games because they are so young and she is so overworked. I'll see the cook (who is probably about 70) go sit in there with her but she can't really do much either. There are three actual babies and one of them is always crying. The toddlers are actually very happy and they listen to me better than the big kids but it's just too heartbreaking (and smelly) to spend my entire day in there. One of them has this mold growing on her head and this other one has deep scabs and scratches on her face. I want to ask but I'm afraid to know what is wrong. I'll usually try to take the babies out of the room for a bit so the teacher can change their diapers one by one and get a break. We have an outdoor covered area in between the two rooms (which leaks when it rains) so I usually take the babies out there to just run around, get fresh air, and if we're lucky I'll try to play a 'Simon Says' type game with them. They are absolute gems to be around and they are so appreciative of a hug and some attention since they receive so little in that room. I doubt any of them gets coddled or picked up when they're crying but when I'm around I can't help but just give them that loving. And truthfully, it shuts them up and they're fine after 30 seconds in my arms. It's a good feeling when I calm one down and assure them that someone is here watching over them.

After dancing and shaking our sillies out, most of the children have arrived and their parents have gone off to work. On a full day we generally have about 50 kids in the 'Big Kid' room from ages 3 to 5. They're favorite thing to do is something I picked up at UCA Cheerleading Camp back at high school. It's called 'Bananas' and it goes a little something like this:
"Form Banana, form form Banana"---raise one arm
"Form Banana, form form Banana"---raise the other arm
"Peel Banana, peel peel Banana"---lower one arm
"Peel Banana, peel peel Banana"---lower one arm
"Go Bananas, go go Bananas! Go Bananas go go Bananas!"---dance around as crazy as you want

They go NUTS for this. We've taught it to other volunteers and even our program directors who have taught it to their kids at their placements and even their own children. It's a hit here. We also do the same thing with 'Potatoes' and at the end we 'Mash potatoes mash mash potatoes'. Try it sometime. We thought it was fun and dorky and silly in high school but holy crap do these kids absolutely love it.

It's then usually time for crafts/toys. When we first arrived I could barely find anything for these kids. The puzzles and toys were scattered everywhere buried in crates and boxes filled with garbage and old crayon drawings. There are two wooden shelving units that open up which were totally unorganzied and unmanageable. I finally got so sick of never having enough stuff for all of the children that I (surprise surprise) ORGANIZED ALL OF IT. I asked Cynthia (the head of the program) if I could throw away things that were absolute garbage, things that were rendered totally useless. I was afraid she would say no and would say that we should salvage as much as possible but she was totally cool with what I was doing. I did find myself saving a lot more than I would have back at home because I knew that I had to keep as much as I could possibly use. Even broken crayons and books that have been colored in were saved as long as I could still see them being used. My longterm goal here is to assess their resources and materials and see what I can get donated from the community and stores. Ideally I would also like to involve the parents for a clean up day and try to get a fresh coat of paint inside. I know that CCS is working to help them build some stuff outside, I'm pretty sure one of the things being fixed is the playground that is not in use right now. Playing outside right now usually means running around in the dirt and gravel.

Anyways, I organized everything and finally found a lot more than what we had been using for two weeks. We have plenty of crayons and coloring books. We have lots of books but many of them are quite old and on the verge off falling apart. A big pile of them are also in Xhosa which makes them useless for Hillary and I since we don't speak or read the language. I found more wooden block and legos and small toys but what I'm most disappointed about are the puzzles. I find that the kids love the puzzles the most and that they work in teams to figure them out. Only five out of our perhaps 15 puzzles have all the pieces. They aren't your typical puzzle with 50 pieces and such. They are the wooden boads with cutouts that you have to match the cutout to the shape on the board. It amazes me that I can give the same puzzle to same table each day and they still love figuring it out and having something to play with. I have tried to implement sharing techniques and teaching them how to be more polite and more generous with their toys but it's going to take some time. The minute I put a handful of crayons on the table there are 2 or 3 kids who immediately grab the whole pile for themselves. I'm still working on it...

We have stencils and white paper and some colored paper. No scissors, no glue, no stickers, no colored paper and a very limited supply of markers and pencils. We have flash cards which we do every day for about 20 minutes but the kids are very smart and I want to start working on more advanced topics. The older ones know all of their colors, numbers, shapes, animals, body parts, and basic nouns like car, sweater, or tree. The little one, like my three year and young four year olds, know most colors, animals, and body parts and some numbers and shapes. Hillary really wants to work on phonics and learning their ABCs (beyond the song) and I want to create Bingo cards to teach them what their numbers look like, not just how to count from 1-50.

At 11 we have snacktime. This is my favorite part of the day because we get to give the kids their backpacks. You may think this is crazy but I love to watch the kids light up the way they do when they get their backpack. You see, all of the kids sit down at their chair and we hold up their backpacks one by one and the child raises their hand if it's theirs. They get this huge grin on their face and yell 'me me me!' if it belongs to them. They are SO PROUD of THEIR backpack, THEIR possession. It's amazing because when I hold up one backpack all of the kids know who it belongs to and will shout their name and point to that kid. How they know all 50 backpacks is beyond me. They like to play this little game with us that when I hold up one backpack a kid will raise their hand and when I go to give it to them they give me a devilish smile and say, 'no, not mine'. They LOVE to play tricks on us! Stupid white girls. There is one who always plays this game on me and even when I ask him to stop he continues to do so and therefore he has started to receive his backpack last. That'll teach him, eh?

When snacktime is over and I'm done peeling about 7 oranges for them we have story time until Wonga comes back to pick us up at noon. We read about 2-3 books in English and sometimes I'll have Tandeka read a story in Xhosa. I'm not sure how much their minds process all of the English stories so I try to pick out books that rhyme because if nothing else, I heard that rhyming is good for developing young minds, even if they don't understand the words.

So now that you've done that math and you've figured out this is only a 4 hour day I can assure you that it is probably just as exhaustive as working an 8-hour day back in the states. I'm not discrediting anyone who has worked long days with children, like my mom or my roommates Brittany and Mia, because I remember watching them all collapse after a day's work. We just face so many different challenges here, especially the language barrier. And when all else fails and we can't find the supplies or resources to keep them entertained, we sing and dance for hours at a time. I leave feeling like I've had a total body workout. Hillary and I are really left to do everything in the classroom for the time we are there. We really just use Tandeka or Cynthia or the cook as our Respect monitor. The kids love us and have so much fun when we are there but they give us ZERO respect or quiet when there is no other teacher in the room. Yet the minute of those ladies walks in BAM! Silence. Good behavior. Respect. I apologize to any substitute teacher I ever had who I terrorized because they were not my 'real' teacher (aka-sorry Mrs.Coslet).

I know this has been long and there is so much more I plan to write next time but my illness is kicking in again and I am freezing so it's time to crawl under the blankets and crash. I still miss home quite a bit but I'm having a better week now. Keep up with the e-mails and comments, I love 'em!

Monday, September 15, 2008

Of all the things I miss the most...

While I promised that my next entry would be about Luthando and the kids, I only have few minutes right now so I thought I would just add a short entry before I sit down this week and really crank out a longer post.

Today my first bout of homesickness hit me. I had a long and busy weekend and today a mix of exhaustion, sad news, and rain really crept up on me. We found out today that another CCS volunteer in the Tanzania program, a 22-year old from Canada, was killed in a car accident on her way to a safari. It really hit me since she was my age. I can't believe that G-D would take away someone who traveled half way across the world to give up her time to take care of others in a third world country. It makes me sick to my stomach. So, I promise to wear my seatbelt every time I get in the car here.

So now I'm all sad about missing home and being without my family and the girls and Lawrence crew I started thinking about everything I missed the most. Here are a list of things you should expect to be lonely without while in Africa-

-fresh milk at my disposal all day long
-reliable outlets, internet connections, power connections
-the black hole (aka-my bed)
-CNN on my TV 24/7, or CNN at all for that matter
-baseball...and the Cubs of course
-doing my own laundry instead of using a pick up service
-no smoking law in bars
-a quiet house without 20 roommates
-Diet Coke that actually tastes like Diet Coke (Coca-Cola Light tastes like Coke here)
-driving on the road without fearing for my life
-going to the gym
-driving myself places and not relying on taxi services for everything
-trips to the grocery store and Target
-not being able to meet (yet) or hold my new baby cousin MAC
-deep dish pizza
-never worrying about the tap water I drink at restaurants

But there are quite a few things here that I love and I will miss desperately when I go home:
-the cappuccinos. There was a little cafe in Italy down the street from school and the woman who ran it made the most incredible cappuccinos. I got addicted to them there but was highly disappointed when the ones at Starbucks just weren't the same. But I swear, anywhere you go outside the US has the BEST cappuccino and that definitely includes South Africa
-the mountains
-two meals a day cooked for me
-abusing that Rand like I'm an angry wife beater (see previous post for explanation)
-the kindness of the African people and their desire to show us foreigners what a wonderful country they live in. They are so proud of their home.
-the ocean smell when we drive past the beaches

That's all for now, I am in desperate need of a nap but please keep on reading on looking out for a new post soon. Again, I would love addresses to send postcards so keep em coming. Adios amigos.

And by the way, I have very limited time on the Internet since there are 20 of us here and we have to buy our own Internet minutes which are not cheap so...I don't have time to research all of wonderful things going on back in the good 'ole US of A. So if any of you would be so kind as to send me links to what's going on in the election, the Cubs race to the World Series, and updates on all my favorite Nancy Grace cases I would absolutely love you. My e-mail is jstelz86@gmail.com

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

TIA (This Is Africa)

So I first heard this term used in the movie Blood Diamond but my tour guide this weekend used it to describe our train which was over an hour later (and eventually never showed). Apparently Africans used this term to describe anything of dysfunction or corruption as if to say, “Oh well, it’s Africa, what can you do?” I think it’s going to be the theme of my trip because this is one wacky place. TIA!

For instance, I have never tried so many different foods before. Last week we dove right in to African cuisine and ate at a beautiful place called Mama Africa on Long Street. My friend Danielle ordered ostrich, I ordered the crocodile and we split the dishes. Ostrich is just like steak and crocodile really does taste like chicken. They eat a ton of lamb here and I have to say, I have thoroughly enjoyed it-Dad was right. The cooks at the house come up with the wackiest combinations of food to put together but they are always on the ball. My favorite was this salad of cucumber, avocado, onions, and a Greek dressing. I’ve tried curry and Indian chicken pizza and next week we are being cooked a traditional Cape Malay lunch since they have such a prominent influence here.

One thing I cannot stand (and all of the CIMBites can probably sympathize with me) is the milk here. The milk they serve here is not fresh cold milk from a refrigerator. It comes in a cardboard carton and they keep it in the pantry. So far I have used it for my coffee and nothing else. My roommates will testify that I can go through a gallon of milk in three to four days so I was having a panic attack that I wouldn’t have any milk, or therefore cereal, for two months but yesterday we made a quick trip to the store and I found fresh milk. Saved.

**It has been brought to my attention about the incredible amount of grammar/spelling errors in my entries. Unfortunately I have been writing these in the wee hours of the night when I have finally found time to myself in the quiet den once everyone else has gone to bed. So I apologize for my poor writing and I’ll proofread the heck out of my next entries. Kerry-how many exclamation points have I used so far? I know you’re keeping track.**

Back to Africa-it has been cold and rainy and miserable these past few days. I am so ashamed to say it but after our first intense week of nonstop go-go-go the girls and I spent nine hours in the den watching season four of Sex & the City. Cape Town is the kind of city where everything you want to do is outdoors so this weather really does us no good here. We just needed a day to cool down and be bums and eat all of the strange African junk food we could find. Since James (a 25-year old computer whiz from California) is our only boy I really do feel like I’m back at Sigma Kappa. Communal showers, bunk beds, and long evenings in the den chatting and laughing and laying.

Tomorrow there is nice weather forecasted, only rain in the morning, and about 60 in the afternoon. We plan to climb Table Mountain in the afternoon after placement and lunch. Table Mountain got that name because it has a flat top. The clouds cover it like a tablecloth on a rainy day. We can see it from our backyard and it’s absolutely stunning, just like being back at CIMBA at the foot of Mount Grappa. Table Mountain is about a sandstone mountain and about a 2 ½ hour climb. It is 3,500 ft so many people take the cable car back down. From what I hear they may be a post office at the top for me to send postcards so please do leave me a comment with your address if you want me to send you one. I would be more than happy to drop you a line after a nice hike!

Speaking of hiking and exercise, I have learned that I hate riding bicycles. Stellenbosch, a town right outside of Cape Town is like the Napa Valley of South Africa. South Africa is famous for it’s wine, especially a blend called Pinotage. We knew we had to take a tour and what better way to see the vineyards than a biking and wine tour? So we took the tour to three estates with a tasting at each one as well as lunch in the middle. Well, I am also certain that my bottom is bruised and I never want to see another bike ever again. Don’t infer anything yet-there wasn’t enough wine to affect our riding abilities but I guess I am extremely out of shape (I guess….ok, I KNOW). We were huffing and puffing and panting during what was supposed to be a “leisurely” ride through the countryside according to the web site. At one point I just got off and walked my bike! Our group was five of us from CCS and then about 9 people from Johannesburg, South Africa. They just so happened to be marathon runners and every year most of them run a 90 kilometer uphill race that takes about 10 hours. I was humiliated because one of them would come up beside me every so often and ride next to me with one hand on my back and help push me up the hills. Loved the wine, hated the bikes.

My favorite activity here however would have to be something we like to call ‘Abusing the Rand’. The currency exchange here is about eight rands to the dollar we get a whole lot of bang for our buck. A taxi ride to downtown Cape Town will cost us each about two dollars when split it in a taxi of five people. I was able to get a 20 oz. bottle of Coca-Cola Light (definitely does NOT taste like diet coke) and a small bag of chips for under a dollar at the Woolworths organic grocery store. When I took a surfing lesson last week it cost me 11 rand (about a dollar and a half) to take a 45 min. train ride round-trip to the beach and 200 rand (about $25) for an hour lesson, a wet suit, and a board. Abusing the rand really is a fun little game over here and I plan to continue to do so these entire next two months. London may have put me out a bit but I have plenty made up for it here.

I have a cell phone now but I don’t really know how you have to dial it from to US to call me. Denise has that information so I’ll put it on here in my next entry which I PROMISE will be about Luthando Educare and all of my precious children. They have worn me out already, I have to come home each day and take a short nap. Perhaps I’ll treat my self to an $18 hour long massage down at the Waterfront….

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

I can click!

Molweni, igama lam ngu Jessica.

That's isiXhosa for "Hello everyone, my name is Jessica." isiXhosa is one of the largest languages spoken here in South Africa, after English and Afrikaans (a more Germanic language that was created by the Dutch). I took an hour class yesterday in Xhosa because that is the language spoken by the people at my placement (more on them later). So, every time you see a 'C', 'Q', or 'X' in Xhosa you 'click'. However, they are three different types of clicks and extremely hard to master. They even have strange pairings of letters such 'mlh', another very hard sound for English speakers to master. So for now I'll just stick to clicking my heels three times in case I need to go home.

Back to the beginning-I'm here safe and sound with minimal damage from American Airlines. The flight to London was awful, had about an hour of sleep and had the open seat next to me taken up by a woman whose television set was broken. Slept less than an hour and then less than an hour at the hotel. We missed our tour of London the next day because the hotel told us it would only take an hour to get to the bus stop but it took well over an hour and 15 minutes. So Ashley (a fellow CCS volunteer from Chicago) and I spent the day touring London on our own and eating fish n' chips at the Sherlock Holmes Pub in Trafalgar Square. London is absolutely way too expensive but I find it to be such a magical city. This is the second time I've been there and next time I get to go I'd like to try to manage to stay for more than 36 hours. One day...when I'm rich...in the far far far future...

Boarding British Airways was a completely different experience. The food-gourmet. The attendants-charming, kind, accommodating. The seats-a bit roomier but much cleaner than AA. The perks-unlimited wine, care packets, and better movie options. I was thrilled and finally got about three hours of sleep. Spoke to the most incredible SA native who works for Dell. He and his wife invited me and some friends over for a brie (BBQ) and to meet his three children when we get the chance. We will definitely take him up on the offer one evening because he just gave me the best advice about Cape Town and so far he has been on the ball about everything.

Arriving in Cape Town was a breeze and we were greeted by Malinga. Malinga is one of the three drivers employed by CCS. They are in charge of pick-ups/drop offs at the airport, driving us all to our placement in the morning, and doing our group tours to museums and other spots picked out by CCS (a bit of a late side note: CCS stands for Cross Cultural Solutions, the name of my program & SA stands for South Africa). We have all immediately fell in love with Malinga. He is the grandfather I always wished I had. So caring, so funny, so paternal. When we picks us up from the placement in the afternoon he greets us with a huge smile and a warm hug and it's almost as if I'm in pre-school again and my dad has just come to pick me up. Included in his awesome taste in music (all things American plus he has the greatest African dance beats and tribal sounds) he is a huge DAVE MATTHEWS BAND fan. I just discovered this yesterday and I'm telling you, you should have seen his face light up when I told him my iPod had over 200 DMB songs and that he could have them all on CDs. We jam out to it and I give him the background on all of the songs. (Beth-his favorite song is 'Angel' so you'll have to tell Ashley because I know that is her favorite as well!) The children at my placement even chant 'Molo Malinga Molo Malinga' (hello Malinga hello Malinga) when they see the van pull up in the morning-he is a superstar in our world.

On to the house. It's a large yellow house in the Rosebank neighborhood of Cape Town located adjacent to Rondebasch where the University of Cape Town is located. The house is 150 years old and CCS is in the process of purchasing it from its owner. We have a gate around it and security hut with a 24 hour guard at the front entrance. There is a backyard garden area and a large back porch. It's quite old and needs a lot of work but it's very homey. It is a lot like living back at Sigma Kappa (especially since there are only two boys here) but Sigma Kappa would have been lavish compared to this. We make it work though and I have no real complaints.

Did I mention it's FREEZING? It's been in the low 60s with rain every day except for today. In the house I am bundled up in one of two sweatshirts I bought and my heaviest sweatpants. I'm wrapped up in my blanket 24/7. Today it warmed up to about 68 with sunshine and no rain. It's the end of winter so we're just expecting spring to show up soon or I'm screwed. What on earth am I going to do with the four pairs of shorts and countless tank tops I brought? I thought for sure I'd be sweating by now but the only time that happened was when I was dragging around my 80 lbs. of luggage.

I've already made some wonderful friends here, as you do with any international situation. It happened at CIMBA, it happened at Birthright, and it's happening here as we speak. Like I said, it's mostly girls so we have about seven of us who have found each other. There is still a bit of a division between the veterans (those who have been here for at least a month) and those of us who just arrived but I have found three veterans who I have come to rely on and trust. Two of my favorite ladies here are Jill and Pat. Jill is in her late 50s and she is a Scottish woman living in Hawaii. What an accent! Pat is also in her 50s (I think) and she is a Scottish woman living in Canada. They met by chance here and have quickly become best friends. They remind me so much of my mother and I wish she could meet them. They are brave, independent, funny women with hearts of gold. They will take care of us if we ever need it (Jill offered to hold heads out of the toilet if we get too rowdy one night) but they are just about as wild as we are. I have never laughed so hard as I did last night listening to the two of them banter about what's bothering them. They love to go out to dinner with us and do everything that we're doing. Tonight they went with a group to see some sort of naked opera. I opted out of that one but I'm sure the pictures will give me all I need to know. I'm excited to forge friendships with people from all over our country and in all different age ranges.

The food here is decent. Nothing I can't eat but nothing I would ask Lola to cook back at home. We have PBJ, cereal, fruit, juice, coffee, and tea available all day long but it's hard to stay at the house and eat because we have such a plethora of international cuisine to choose from at our disposal. Two nights ago we all went out to Mama Africa and I crocodile and ostrich! Ostrich tastes just like steak and crocodile could fool you for chicken. I obviously cannot afford to eat out more than once or twice a week but I will soon be trying the Mexican restaurant that is in walking distance as well as the Ethiopian cafe down on Long Street (the Mass. St. of Cape Town).

Nights and weekends are free except for the cultural activities and seminars that our program has built in to our two-week orientation. We plan to do a lot of exploring (anything free or extremely cheap) including climbing Table Mountain, visiting Robben Island, surfing lessons, and visiting the Kirstenbosh botanical gardens which has jazz music on Sunday evenings. This place is an extreme adventure capital so if I get the chance and decide to splurge on myself I will be going skydiving or jumping off the highest bungee in the world. Most people here are going shark cage diving on Saturday but I will be retaining my fear of sharks and staying on dry land. I just remind myself that it is good to be scared of something in this world and that we all don't have to confront our fears. I'll stay away from Jaws, thank you very much.

I know so much of this has been about everything EXCEPT for my placement and volunteer work but I have only been there Tuesday and today so I am going to hold off until my next or third entry because I haven't really formed an opinion about it yet. It is incredible what they are doing there but I really want to go into detail and I just don't think I could do that right now. But let's just say that there might perhaps be a small little stowaway in my 80 lb. luggage on my return flight. I do have over 40 of them to choose from...

(...I'm talking about the kids)

Good night for now. Below is my contact information in case you want to drop me a small letter or pictures you can mail it to this address or call me at this phone number. I will be getting an international pay-as-you-go phone shortly but until then use this #:

(011) 27 21 685 2699
or
(011) 27 21 685 5037

Cross Cultural Solutions-Post-net-Suite #3
Private Bag XII
Mowbray, 7705, CT, South Africa